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Notwithstanding the fact that, before leaving, I had read stories of enthusiastic independent backpackers who had experienced Georgia day after day, planning little or nothing, moving by public transport or hitchhiking, I preferred to rely on an expert. Choosing the stops with a person who knows places, distances, road conditions, and all the information that – still – cannot be found on the net (especially in relation to such a not touristy destination) allowed me to structure a trip to Georgia that satisfied my expectations broadly. It is also true that I was lucky enough to study the itinerary with Francesco Trecci, an unconditional lover of the country, and a true star in Georgia after the publication of two books! Francesco helped me to build a crazy journey (a nice group travel project with the writer is being defined next summer so, if you are interested, I can provide you with his references) and then he entrusted me to the loving care of a local agency that did the rest.

The plus of a local agency and a guide

The agency that did not sell me a package dealing with intermediation in bookings (I can do it very well independently and I did it) but that provided me with a guide who accompanied me during the trip, able to explain the history and traditions of the country, the wounds still open, the desire for redemption, the generosity of its people.

A guide who has been able to manage program changes while minimizing inconvenience (for example, unexpected closures due to bad weather can occur that would create significant wastes of time to redefine itinerary and travel). And again, a guide who, knowing Georgian, has simplified communication. I do not chew Russian – which the over 35 speak fluently in the country – and my English is not decisive because – alas – it is not yet widespread in the most remote villages that I wanted to visit. Our guide was a treasure. He perfectly understood my tastes and gave us experiences that we will never forget. Canyon boat rides, cave tours, museum visits, city walks but also a lunch with a unique family in the garden of their home, the “groceries” by locals on the side of the road, or a picnic with locals!

Travel to Georgia: how to get there?

We took a flight from Rome with Turkish Airlines that transited through Istanbul before landing in Tbilisi. To save a little, you can take the Pegasus, the Turkish low-cost line. A direct Wizzair flight to Kutaisi also leaves from Rome Fiumicino and Milan Malpensa. Once at the airport, you can take a taxi to get to the center because the costs are meager.

What documents do I need to enter Georgia?

With a passport, valid for at least six months after the date of entry into the country and with an identity card (in paper and electronic format), provided that you are transiting from Schengen states. An entry visa is not required. Italian citizens can enter Georgia without a visa requirement for one year. If you need more specific information, contact the Embassy of Georgia in Rome

Travel to Georgia: which stages to include?

Our trip lasted 15 days / 14 nights and we wanted to discover as much as possible of this wonderful land! Caucasus, Black Sea, lakes, rivers, waterfalls, canyons, cities, remote villages, monasteries, museums for a total of 2175km!

Days 1-3 Tbilisi. The splendid capital has lost none of its charms thanks to a balanced mix of old and new. The Mtkvari River divides it in two, but the bridges and the cable car connect the banks making Old Tbilisi and the newer districts communicate. Beautiful by day and intriguing at night, with a liveliness that makes European cities pale. Two nights in Tbilisi.

Read What to see in Tbilisi.Days 4-5 Kakheti. The easternmost region of Georgia is rich in history and spirituality although it is much more famous for producing fine wines. In the two days, we visited Sighnaghi (the city of Love, with cobbled streets and red roofs of houses, and a wall that, if desired, you can walk for a short panoramic stretch over the Alazani Valley), the Bodbe monastery (where there are the remains of Santa Nino, the most revered saint of the country), the Cathedral of Alaverdi, the house-museum of the poet Alexander Chavchavadze in the city of Tsinandali and Telavi.

Between one visit and another, we had two wine tastings: the first in a stilt house in an organic vineyard and the second in a vineyard where the owner has also created a beautiful accommodation facility—night in Telavi.

Day 6, Caucasus. Travel along the super scenic Georgian military road (which connects Tbilisi to the upper Caucasus to the border with Russia), visit the Ananuri fortress and the splendid Gergeti Trinity Church in an isolated position at 2170 meters below Mount Kazbek (5047m high), but that we couldn’t see due to fog!) Night in Tbilisi.

Days 7-8 Mtskheta-Gori-Uplistsikhe-Akhaltsikhe. Visit of the monastery of Jvari (included in the Unesco heritage), which rises from the top of a hill overlooking the confluence of the Mt’k’vari and Aragvi rivers and the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta, the spiritual heart of the country (included in the Unesco heritage) famous for being the place where Christ’s tunic is buried.

Visit the Stalin Museum in Gori and the nearby rock city of Uplistsikhe, one of the oldest urban settlements in Georgia and an important religious center for pagan cults. Tasting of wines from the Ateni micro-zone and local cheeses in a delightful countryside property.

Visit the Akhaltsikhe Rabati Fortress and the rock city of Vardzia, the cave monastery built by Queen Tamara in 1185, excavated in the side of Mount Erusheli. Two nights in Akhaltsikhe.

Days 9-11 Goderzi Pass-Batumi. Visit the small monastery of Zarzma and off-roads of about 100 kilometers to admire the “adjaran summer settlements,” the remote villages that are populated only in summer in this unspoiled stretch of mountain. Stop at Green Lake and cable car from Goderdzi Ski Resort for a breathtaking view at 2300 meters.

Arrive in Batumi, where relaxation should be the watchword, but Las Vegas on the Black Sea is too lively and full of things to do and see to lounge in a hotel or on a sunbed on the beach. Among the must-see: the Miracle Park, the palm-fringed boulevard full of sculptures, clubs, benches, cycle paths, and sports equipment; the skyline of impressive skyscrapers; the Torre dell’Alfabeto with the restaurant that rises from 130 meters, the cable car that connects the port with the hill of Anuri overlooking the city in 15 minutes; the small fish market and Piazza, the busy square full of bars where you can listen to live music in the evening. Two nights in Batumi.

What to see in Batumi?

Days 12-13 Kutaisi. Visit of the city and the Bagrati Cathedral. Visit the nearby monasteries of Gelati and Motsameta. Visit of the house-museum of the writer Otia Ioseliani and tasting of wines produced by his nephew Otia. Massage in the spa of Tsakaltubo a famous spa town. Tour to the Prometheus caves and rubber boat ride in the Martvili canyon.

Lunch with a family in the Naidjakhavo village and cooking class to prepare an Amarula khachapuri. View of Nikortsminda church and Khavanchkara wine tasting at Ambrolauri. Pic nic with Georgians. Two nights in Kutaisi.

Day 14 Tbilisi. Return to the capital and walk by night in the former Meidan Bazar. Night in Tbilisi.

Day 15 Return flight.

How to move on a trip to Georgia? Car, train, marshrutka or hitchhiking?

By car, no doubt!

There are trains, of course, but they are not very frequent, and the fastest ones (and similar to our standards) connect the main cities such as Tbilisi, Kutaisi, Batumi, Borjomi, Tskaltubo (on this page, you can view the routes and timetables). If you also want to visit remote or simply more decentralized villages, you need to travel by car. The hypothesis of combining buses or minibusses with the train for these routes would require more flexible times and a great ability to adapt since the cheap marshrutkas leave only when they are full.

Hitchhiking is not as risky an idea as you might think since we have been told that several young people travel this way (and it seems to be safe).

Since, like many, we had two weeks of vacation and very little flexibility and as much as we prefer the idea of travel to that of vacation, we did not want to return more tired than when we left, for the trip to Georgia we opted for the car and, more precisely, for a 4 × 4. The main roads are obviously paved and equipped with signs, but the road network that we traveled was secondary and therefore often bumpy and devoid of indications. Indeed, to see the villages of the Goderzi Pass, we traveled 100 kilometers off-road and it took over 7 hours! Also, for this reason (and because Georgians drive as if they were doing a Formula One race) in addition to driving, we asked for a driver to move around the country. This decision avoided us, as in Cappadocia, from renting a car (costs for a 4x 70/80 $ per day + insurance and advance guarantee), to make and pay for petrol, to park at each stop, and of course to study google maps!

How much does a trip to Georgia cost?

I bring you some practical examples. Guesthouse: 10-15 € per person. 3-star hotel: € 25-30 per person. Lunches: € 5-10 per person. Dinners: € 15 per person. 1L water: 0.40. Petrol: € 0.80 per liter. Museum or attraction ticket: € 1-5 per person.

For 15 days / 14 nights of tour with guide + driver + car + petrol + all entrance tickets for museums / attractions + snacks + most meals + transfer to and from the airport: € 130 per day (for two).

What to pack on a trip to Georgia?

We went in August. If you will do the same itinerary as ours, you will have to consider trekking clothing (boots, technical pants, t-shirt, sweatshirt, and way because in any case, the peaks are around 2500 meters on average), city clothing (with walking shoes and cotton clothing) and beachwear. We were able to pack everything in hand luggage while wearing the bulkier things during the flights. P.S. bring a shawl to put on your head to enter all the Orthodox churches (I solved with a hoodie). Consider that women, in addition to the veil, if they wear trousers (yes, you read that right, trousers!) Must put an additional apron around their waist. The same goes for men in Bermuda shorts. If you forget, no problem, you will find towels at all entrances to use for free.

Itineraries in Georgia: what to visit in 1, 2 or 3 weeks

Many are now writing to me for advice on a good itinerary in Georgia. It always amazes me to think how many of you, with sweet words and a genuine curiosity that transpires from the very first lines, decide to try a trip to the Caucasus and land in Georgia, between the Black Sea and the snow-capped peaks. I am not surprised, however, when you answer me and ecstatically tell me about your trip, which in the case of Georgia has the real flavor of discovery. I read your e-mails with a beating heart and eyes in front of which memories pass very quickly – the submerged straw wagons, the jolts of the marshrutka, the taste of freshly baked khachapuri, the dazzling snow on Mount Kazbek.

I am not surprised because I have the mathematical certainty that you will return in love with this forgotten, troubled strip of land with blinding contrasts, yet with a desire for openness and growth like few other places in the world.

I seriously think I will never tire of talking about it. I have designed these itineraries in Georgia to streamline the answers I write to you, hoping to give you useful and interesting ideas; but I wrote them mainly because billions of words are not enough to narrate the genuine beauty of this land and, month after month, there is always something more to say that I have not been able to explain elsewhere.

Important note: follows along (but exhaustive) post that has helped thousands of travelers for free since it was published.

I have created a paginated and printable pdf of the 3 most read posts about the Caucasus and Georgia, which will guide you step by step in the DIY organization of a trip to the Caucasus: how to organize a trip to the Caucasus, what to see in Tbilisi and which itineraries to do in Georgia – the post you happened upon. You can decide to download this trio of Caucasian posts for a small donation to support this blog which, as you can see, does not host banner ads. You can use the button below or check out the other downloadable posts and previews on my online store. The post will always be available online, but downloading the pdf is a way to say ‘thank you’ and give value to the time spent on this blog. For now, I’ll tell you: thank you!

Now, if you are still unsure whether Georgia will be worth visiting, or if you just don’t know anything about Georgia, listen to me and read this post.

If you are already motivated but you need a general overview of the area, understand how the world works at those longitudes, understand what there is to see, and get all the useful information to organize your trip to the Caucasus do it yourself, read (indeed, save) this other post.

For everything else, there is khachapuri, which will give you the affection and calories you need to climb even the highest peak.

These itineraries in Georgia are exemplary: I have been to Georgia a dozen times but I have never exactly traveled any of these travel drawings. I have often made clips, blocks, discoveries, and strange turns combining Georgia and Armenia, Abkhazia, or Azerbaijan. A little by train, a little by marshrutka, a lot by hitchhiking. Our itinerary in the Caucasus has never been fixed, decided at the table, but always a canvas sensitive to moods, events, meetings. Take a cue, have fun, but above all do not stop commenting, writing to me, and telling me about your Caucasian travels. I await them with joy because they make me relive the beauty of traveling too.

That’s all for today. A hug and happy reading!

On our first trip to the Caucasus, we toured Georgia and Armenia in 19 days, also managing to enter the separatist region of Abkhazia, militarized by Russia. Partly because we were hitchhiking, partly because we let ourselves be guided by events, we visited a series of very remote and far from touristic areas, leaving out many of the most recurring must-haves on the classic itineraries in Georgia. To fully visit the country and appreciate its rebellious and religious soul, creative, original (and very tasty), it would take at least three weeks. Excluding South Ossetia, which is accessible only from Russia, and in fact also Abkhazia (we have been there, but frankly for us Europeans, it’s not really a joke to go there), there are still many cities and places to visit.

The most famous mountainous regions, a paradise for sportsmen, are Svaneti (with characteristic medieval towers), the region around Kazbegi (the most famous and easily accessible), Tusheti (remote and authentic), and the mountainous region above Kakheti (Lagodekhi ). The Lesser Caucasus is decidedly lower (but the passes still exceed 2000m!), Difficult to reach and not at all touristic, but offers more Middle Eastern and decidedly less alpine landscapes, even if to appreciate the real desert mountains it is necessary to go as far as Armenia (panoramas incredible from Selim’s Caravanserai).

I have drawn up an example itinerary of 3 weeks, putting in brackets the stages to be skipped in the case of a 2-week itinerary, and assuming a round trip to Kutaisi, served by low-cost airlines. Georgia’s most overwhelming history and beauty lie in the mountains: that’s why I included a total of 8 days of trekking in Svaneti, Tusheti, and the Kazbegi area in the three-week itinerary. They are areas that are quite equipped for tourism where it is possible to go camping. Unfortunately, the paths are not always well marked. If you stay in the valley or along the mule track, you don’t need a guide; if instead, you plan to try your hand at complex trekking (Mount Ushba, Mount Kazbek) it is advisable to have one.

1 – Kutaisi, visit the city and Bagrati Cathedral

[2 – Kutaisi, visit of the surroundings of Kutaisi (Prometheus caves, Gelati monastery, Katskhi’s column, cableway)]

3 – Svaneti region (Mestia or Ushguli), with a stop in Zugdidi

4 – trekking in Svaneti

5 – trekking in Svaneti

6 – Batumi

[7 – Batumi]

8 – Borjomi

9 – Akhaltsikhe, with a visit to Vardzia and surroundings

10 – Tbilisi

[11 – Tbilisi]

12 – Tbilisi half-day or full-day trip to Mtskheta

11 – Tbilisi, full-day trip to Davit Gareja (border with Azerbaijan)

[12 – Tbilisi, a half-day trip to Gori (Stalin’s Museum)]

13 – Kazbegi (Stepantsminda), visit Ananuri, trekking and night in a tent at high altitude

14 – Trekking to Kazbegi (night in Kazbegi or Gudauri)

15 – Telavi, visit the nearby monasteries

16 – Sighnaghi and Kakheti vineyards

[17 – Tusheti, trekking (Pankisi Valley)] [18 – Tusheti, trekking] [19 – Tusheti, trekking]

20 – Tbilisi

21 – Kutaisi, return

Georgia itinerary: 1 week around Tbilisi

Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, is the solution to all the traveler’s dilemmas: a charismatic city full of things to do located in a strategic position, which allows you to explore a good part of the country only with day trips. This is his itinerary includes most of the most classic and famous sites in Georgia, but it requires a very fast pace, however, offset by the comfort of sleeping for four nights in a row in the same accommodation. At the same time, it leaves out all the western regions of Georgia (such as Svaneti or the coast) and Kakheti, the wine region in the east. In place of Vardzia and Borjomi you could try to insert two days in Kakheti, visiting Telavi, Sighnaghi, and other villages at the foot of the Tusheti, or try to go into Tusheti (practically accessible only in summer) or in the Pankisi valley, inhabited by populations Chechens.

1 – Tbilisi, arrival, and visit to the city

2 – Tbilisi, half-day or full-day trip to Mtskheta

3 – Tbilisi, full-day trip to Kazbegi (Stepantsminda)

4 – Tbilisi, full-day trip to Davit Gareja (border with Azerbaijan)

5 – Akhaltsikhe, visit the site of Vardzia, Akhaltsikhe, and the nearby monasteries

6 – Borjomi, visit the area // or full day in Tbilisi // or half-day in Gori

7 – Visit Tbilisi and return

Recommended post: how to go to Kazbegi in a day and the little emotional guide in Tbilisi, suspended between Europe and Asia.

Trip to Georgia: 1 week around Kutaisi

If, on the other hand, you have a round trip to Kutaisi, reached by the Hungarian low-cost Wizzair, you could try your hand at a more unusual Georgia itinerary, dedicated to the central and western regions.

Even if any Georgian will joke saying “you know, I didn’t like Milan very much, it reminded me of Kutaisi …”, Kutaisi is a city that is changing at the speed of light – both thanks to the opening of low-cost flights to Europe, but above all, it is the true historical Georgian capital, the cradle of the Iberian Caucasian culture. The center is small but all in all nice, full of statues, new hostels at a good price, and small cafes, to be explored in half a day. The surroundings offer more, such as large caves, frescoed cathedrals (Gelati and Bagrati are UNESCO sites), and more. The easiest way to get around all the attractions is to bargain an honest price with a taxi driver (the equivalent of 20 euros for half a day can go), otherwise, there are marshrutkas that depart from behind the Kutaisi Opera House and reach all destinations with frequency (in high season).

The western regions of Georgia, on the other hand, are still not very touristy except Svaneti and Batumi, a city that seems to us a Las Vegas with a post-Soviet aftertaste, but of which the Georgians are very proud: our friends have defined it rather as a Barcelona of the Caucasus, free-spirited, artistic and bohemian. In my first (and only) visit to the city no

I hadn’t appreciated it at all. However, 3 years have now passed and I imagine, given the growing Turkish and European tourism, that the offer has expanded and has become a more varied and interesting city. The beaches and water are clean but still better in the north, in Abkhazia.

what to see in Kutaisi

1 – Kutaisi, visit the city and Bagrati Cathedral

2 – Kutaisi, visit of the surroundings of Kutaisi (Prometheus caves, Gelati monastery, Katskhi’s column, cableway)

3 – Svaneti region (Mestia or Ushguli), with a stop in Zugdidi

4 – trekking in Svaneti

5 – Batumi

6 – a visit to Tbilisi // or visit to Vardzia (car or driver needed)

7 – Kutaisi, return

That’s all for today, but in the blog you will still find a wealth of other information, looking in the Caucasus category.

Books about Georgia

Your presence is like a city, by Ruska Jorjoliani

Wonderful review by Claudia Giromondolibri for a Georgian from Svaneti who writes in Italian and now lives in Sicily.

Georgia. In the Mountains of Poetry, by Peter Nasmyth (in English)

A travel monument to Georgia, written by someone who has explored this country from top to bottom for over thirty years, from the last Soviet years to today.

Holy Darkness, by Levan Berdzenishvili

With the translation by Francesco Peri, who was our guest in the latest episode of Cemento Podcast, this book is one of the very few contemporary Georgian authors to have been translated into Italian. It tells of the experience in the Gulag of the 1980s, with a distinctly Georgian spirit and eye.

We are on our second trip to Georgia, the pearl of the Caucasus. 12 years have passed since our first visit, so it is the first trip we make to Georgia with children, indeed with the child… who is now 9 years old. How the nation has changed, how many tourists. Before leaving, many thought we were crazy to make this trip, but now I’ll tell you the truth: Georgia is a well-tested, pleasant, amazingly beautiful and varied, very safe tourist destination … only we in Europe didn’t realize it.

Those who have noticed it are the travelers from the Gulf countries … Emirati, Saudis, Kuwaiti, Iranians … all in the family with small children. Just to be precise (and not to judge): people accustomed to comfort, certainly not backpackers looking for adventure. So yes, Georgia is a child-friendly country… and my advice is to visit it now before it’s too fashionable. It will be no coincidence that people call Georgia the “pearl of the Caucasus”.

GEORGIA’S SPREAD PILLS (USEFUL AND USELESS INFORMATION)

I will not be the one to explain Georgia to you, I am not qualified and there are much more accurate books and guides, but at least some information I want to give you – in a somewhat messy way. “Continental” Georgia is located in Causaso, between Russia, Armenia and Azerbaijan – while its coasts (on the Black Sea) also border on Turkey. And then there are the disputed territories of South Ossetia and Abkhazia, now occupied by the Russians.

Georgia is very small, in the sense that it has more or less the area of  Ireland, but with one million fewer inhabitants. If you prefer another comparison: it is as large as a quarter of Italy and has half the Swiss population. A question that many people ask is: is Georgia located in Europe or Asia? Well, no one can say for sure, given that the nation is right on the dividing line that separates Europe from Asia. But if you ask a Georgian how he feels, he will certainly say European. School geography would say, Asia.

GEORGIA AND RELIGION

A trip to Georgia, the pearl of the Caucasus, will take you to the center of a crossroads of religions and ethnicities even if Orthodox Christians are the majority. If you take a taxi, you will soon discover how important religion is: the drivers spend a good part of their time making the sign of the cross three times every time they pass a church. And since there are so many churches, they rarely have both hands on the wheel. Not necessarily related is the fact that the number of fatal accidents in Georgia is decidedly concerning.

Still on the subject of religion: the national saint is Nino, which is however a feminine name. It is written like this and I don’t add anything else: reading Georgian characters is simply impossible. History has it that in the third century AD a woman named Nino came to Georgia to preach and introduce Christianity. The name Nino in this Caucasian nation is still very widespread, so if a woman presents herself as such, don’t look at her in a strange way: she certainly hasn’t gone under the scalpel!

5 PLACES TO VISIT IN GEORGIA WITH CHILDREN

Tbilisi

Tbilisi is a fascinating city, full of contrasts and a little melancholy. Its old town is splendid, full of charm, with its small houses and balconies decorated with lace. Get off the main streets, even slightly, for a truly decadent Tbilisi. The new part, along with via Rustaveli, is all a succession of buildings from the early 1900s, often sumptuous. And then there is the area of the ancient sulfurous baths, still in operation, to be absolutely tried during a trip to Georgia with children. My son loved the experience with scratching (scrub) at the Orbelliani baths.

How to see in the capital? Everything and nothing, in the sense that there is no particular attraction. It is a city to be seen slowly, where it is nice to get lost. If you are in Georgia with children I recommend that you spend a maximum of 3 days in Tbilisi, as there are few specific attractions for the little ones. My son found it pleasant but not surprising. Do not miss the Museum of Illusions (the least typical there can be) and the Bridge of Peace on the Mtkvari River, especially at night. What the locals say looks like a tampon (I confirm!).

Gori

When we say Gori we say, Stalin, since this town about 80 km from Tbilisi is famous only for being the birthplace of Iosif Vissarionovic Dugavili, better known as Stalin. Here in a simple house in 1879 the “little father of peoples” was born. We chose to visit Gori with our son to show him not so much the museum but the train car (highly armored) on which Stalin was traveling, since the man of steel was afraid of flying. Seeing the old train was interesting for him: he looked at the valves and said: but his grandfather has the same in the house! And it’s all true …

We combined Gori with the visit of Mtskheta, to (re) see the splendid frescoes now a UNESCO heritage site and the monastery of Jvari, on the hill in a panoramic position at the confluence of two rivers. Here Santa Nino erected the first cross in Georgian territory. This part of the visit did not go very well: our son would probably have preferred Uplistsikhe, the ancient city carved into the rock 10 km from Gori. We didn’t plan it because we wanted to visit the Davit Gareja monastery, which also has a cave complex.

Kazbegi

Kazbegi does not exist, even if everyone recognizes the name … in truth, the main town of this area of the Caucasus is Stepandsminda, while Kazbegi is the name of the mountain that overlooks it, 5048 meters high. If you are lucky you will see it free from the clouds, with its conical shape and it’s top covered with snow. Stepandsminda is located about 2.5 hours drive from Tbilisi and is, therefore, an easy destination to reach if you are planning a trip to Georgia with children. The landscape is splendid and in fact, they call it the pearl of the Caucasus.

The town can be reached along the historic Georgian military road that connects Tbilisi to the Russian city of Vladikavkaz (in North Ossetia, Russia). The route winds through wild valleys, snow-capped peaks, ancient defensive towers, nomadic settlements and cows, and much more. It alone is worth the trip. Once you arrive it is practically obligatory to visit the small church of Tsminda Sameba in Gergeti (in the past it was on the cover of Lonely Planet), but if you have time, visit the semi-deserted side valleys: they are spectacular, especially that of Juta.

Davit Gareja

Davit Gareja Monastery has located about 100 km from Tbilisi and is not only an ancient and suggestive monastery but also an ancient city carved into the rock (there are more than 5000 cells, to the delight of children). The journey along the mostly dirt road, which crosses an arid and semi-desert area, is truly breathtaking: you are truly in the middle of nowhere. Davit Gareja consists of the main monastery – Lavra – and the Udabno complex. Both date back to around 1500 years ago and are one of the holiest places in Georgia; still today it hosts a monastic community.

On our previous trip to Georgia, after visiting the monastery and seeing the cells, we walked up to Udabno (about 1 hour’s walk) right on the border with Azerbaijan. I remember we were told to pay special attention to snakes, so we weren’t sure we wanted to go with our son. Problem solved on the spot: a few weeks earlier some Azerbaijani border guards had stolen religious objects inside some caves, creating evident friction between his nations – and the path was closed.

Kakheti

Kakheti is not a place but a fairly large area where 50% of Georgia’s wine is produced. We expected to see vineyards everywhere, perhaps terraced, and from the landscape point of view, we were disappointed. The visits we made, however, were satisfactory, and we tasted many excellent wines. Tsinandali proved to be particularly popular with us adults. Our son was patient and if he didn’t like it, he didn’t let it out. Maybe he enjoyed seeing his mum a little sparkling (after only two glasses).

What to see in Kakheti? In this corner of Georgia, you have to take the children to Napareuli and visit the Twins Wine Cellar Museum. They will be very happy to see the very, or the typical amphorae where the wine is left to rest for months and months. Other than our barrels! Furthermore, in this stage of your trip to Georgia, you cannot miss a visit to the fortress of Gremi and the town of Sighnagi. They call it the city of love even though I don’t understand why – but I guess it’s because of the romantic walls of the fortress that surrounds it.

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